Blink an LED on pin 8, on an Arduino Uno
An LED and a 220 ohm resistor on pin 8, switched on for a second and off for a second: the first sketch, on a pin you wire yourself. The whole build, an Arduino Uno and 2 more parts, runs here in your browser on the firmware below; open it in the editor to change the wiring or the code and run it again.
Teaching? Assign it to your class in one click.
Beginner About 10 minutes to build and run. Runs in your browser. Free, and no account needed.
The parts retail for about $30. On Mokxi they're free.
What you'll learn
- Setting a pin as an output with
pinMode - Switching a pin with
digitalWrite - Timing with
delay - Why an LED needs a resistor
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Time: About 10 minutes
- Board: Arduino Uno R3
- Parts: 4
How it works
The LED's long leg (anode) connects through a 220 Ω resistor to pin 8, and its short leg (cathode) goes to GND. When pin 8 is HIGH it sits at 5 V and current flows through the LED. When it is LOW the pin is at 0 V and the LED goes dark.
The sketch switches the pin HIGH for a second, then LOW for a second, forever. It also prints "on" and "off" to the serial monitor so you can see each change. The resistor holds the current to about 14 mA.
Parts list
4 parts, plus the jumper wires. They retail for about $30; on Mokxi they're free.
- 1 × Arduino Uno R3In Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Vending Machine Kit.
- 1 × Half breadboard
- 1 × Resistor, 220 ΩIn Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Halloween Prop Kit.
- 1 × LED, redIn Starter Kit, Halloween Prop Kit, Logic Lab Kit.
Kits that can build it
These 12 starter kits have every part in the circuit. Each kit's page lists what else it can build.
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Super Starter Kit
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Most Complete Starter Kit
- Arduino Starter Kit
- Freenove Ultimate Starter Kit
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Basic Starter Kit
- SunFounder Starter Kit for Arduino Uno R3
- SunFounder Inventor Lab Kit
- REXQualis UNO R3 Super Starter Kit
- LAFVIN Super Starter Kit
- keyestudio Super Starter Kit
- Vilros Arduino Uno 3 Ultimate Starter Kit
- Adafruit MetroX Classic Kit
Wiring table
Every connection, pin by pin, read from the circuit itself. Each row joins the pin on the left to the pin on the right, by a jumper wire or a breadboard strip.
| Part and pin | Connects to |
|---|---|
| LED, red pin C | Arduino Uno R3 pin GND |
| Resistor, 220 Ω pin 1 | Arduino Uno R3 pin 8 |
| LED, red pin A | Resistor, 220 Ω pin 2 |
The code
The firmware exactly as the editor opens it. Change a line there and press Run: it compiles in the browser.
// Blink: an LED on pin 8, one second on and one second off.
//
// pin 8 -> 220 ohm resistor -> LED long leg (anode), short leg -> GND
//
// pinMode() makes pin 8 an output, then digitalWrite() switches it between
// 5 V (HIGH) and 0 V (LOW). The resistor keeps the current to about 14 mA,
// which the LED and the pin are both happy with.
//
// Things to try: change the two delays and make it blink faster, or give
// the LED a short flash and a long pause, like a smoke alarm.
const int LED_PIN = 8;
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.println("Mokxi Uno: blink on pin 8");
}
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
Serial.println("on");
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);
Serial.println("off");
delay(1000);
}
Code walkthrough
The key functions of the sketch, and what each one does.
setup sketch.ino
Runs once. pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT) turns pin 8 into an output, and Serial.begin(9600) opens the serial monitor at 9600 baud. Then it prints a hello line.
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.println("Mokxi Uno: blink on pin 8");
}loop sketch.ino
Runs forever. It sets LED_PIN HIGH, prints "on", and waits 1000 ms. Then it sets the pin LOW, prints "off", and waits another 1000 ms. Change those two delays to change the blink speed.
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
Serial.println("on");
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);
Serial.println("off");
delay(1000);
}Troubleshooting
The usual mistakes with this circuit, and the fix for each.
- The LED never lights This project
Check the LED direction. The anode (A) goes to the resistor and the cathode (C) goes to GND. - The LED blinks on a different pin This project
The wire andLED_PINmust agree. Both use pin 8 here. - The LED is dim, burns out, or the pin reads wrong because the resistor value is off. Resistor
Read the color bands again. A 220 ohm to 330 ohm resistor suits a typical LED on 5 V. 10k is a common pull-up or pull-down value. Check with a multimeter if unsure. - A pull-up or pull-down resistor is missing, so the input floats and reads random values. Resistor
Tie the input to 5 V or ground through about 10k. Or use INPUT_PULLUP and wire the switch to ground. - The LED does not light, or it lights once and then dies. LED
LEDs have polarity. The longer leg (anode) goes toward the positive side. Always add a series resistor, about 220 ohms to 1 k ohm on a 5 V pin. - A blue or white LED stays dark on 3.3 V. LED
Blue and white LEDs drop about 3 V, so 3.3 V leaves almost nothing for the resistor. Use a 5 V supply, or a smaller resistor and a red or green LED. - Upload fails or nothing runs after wiring pins 0 and 1 to a module. Arduino Uno R3
Pins 0 and 1 are the USB serial port. Move the module to other pins, or unplug it while uploading. Also check the right board is selected. - Pins misbehave or the board resets when you power motors or servos from it. Arduino Uno R3
Each I/O pin gives about 20 mA, 40 mA max. Power motors and servos from their own supply and join its ground to the Uno's GND.
Change it and keep it
Open it in the editor, change the circuit or the code, and keep your version in a free account.