Blink an LED on pin 3, on an Arduino Uno
A red LED and a 220 ohm resistor on pin 3, switched on and off every half second: the first sketch you write yourself. The whole build, an Arduino Uno and 2 more parts, runs here in your browser on the firmware below; open it in the editor to change the wiring or the code and run it again.
Teaching? Assign it to your class in one click.
Beginner About 10 minutes to build and run. Runs in your browser. Free, and no account needed.
The parts retail for about $30. On Mokxi they're free.
What you'll learn
- Setting a pin as an output
- HIGH and LOW as 5 V and 0 V
- Timing with delay
- Why the LED needs a resistor
- The setup and loop structure
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Time: About 10 minutes
- Board: Arduino Uno R3
- Parts: 4
How it works
Pin 3 feeds the red LED through a 220 ohm resistor, and the LED's other leg goes to GND. When the pin is HIGH, 5 V pushes current through the LED and it lights. When the pin is LOW, the current stops.
The sketch switches the pin on, waits half a second, switches it off, and waits again. It also prints a hello line to the serial monitor once at the start.
Parts list
4 parts, plus the jumper wires. They retail for about $30; on Mokxi they're free.
- 1 × Arduino Uno R3In Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Vending Machine Kit.
- 1 × Half breadboard
- 1 × Resistor, 220 ΩIn Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Halloween Prop Kit.
- 1 × LED, redIn Starter Kit, Halloween Prop Kit, Logic Lab Kit.
Kits that can build it
These 12 starter kits have every part in the circuit. Each kit's page lists what else it can build.
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Super Starter Kit
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Most Complete Starter Kit
- Arduino Starter Kit
- Freenove Ultimate Starter Kit
- ELEGOO UNO R3 Basic Starter Kit
- SunFounder Starter Kit for Arduino Uno R3
- SunFounder Inventor Lab Kit
- REXQualis UNO R3 Super Starter Kit
- LAFVIN Super Starter Kit
- keyestudio Super Starter Kit
- Vilros Arduino Uno 3 Ultimate Starter Kit
- Adafruit MetroX Classic Kit
Wiring table
Every connection, pin by pin, read from the circuit itself. Each row joins the pin on the left to the pin on the right, by a jumper wire or a breadboard strip.
| Part and pin | Connects to |
|---|---|
| LED, red pin C | Arduino Uno R3 pin GND |
| Resistor, 220 Ω pin 1 | Arduino Uno R3 pin 3 |
| LED, red pin A | Resistor, 220 Ω pin 2 |
The code
The firmware exactly as the editor opens it. Change a line there and press Run: it compiles in the browser.
// Blink an LED on pin 3.
//
// pin 3 -> 220 ohm resistor -> the LED's long leg; the short leg -> GND
//
// setup() runs once and makes pin 3 an output. loop() then runs again and
// again: the pin goes HIGH (5 V, the LED lights), the board waits half a
// second, the pin goes LOW (0 V, the LED goes out), and it waits again.
//
// Without the two delays the LED would flash far too fast to see. Change the
// 500s and run it again.
const int LED_PIN = 3;
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.println("Mokxi Uno: blinking the LED on pin 3");
}
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
delay(500);
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);
delay(500);
}
Code walkthrough
The key functions of the sketch, and what each one does.
setup sketch.ino
Runs once at power-up. It makes LED_PIN (pin 3) an output with pinMode and starts the serial port at 9600 baud so the board can print a short message.
void setup() {
pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.println("Mokxi Uno: blinking the LED on pin 3");
}loop sketch.ino
Runs again and again. digitalWrite sets the pin HIGH, delay(500) waits half a second, then the pin goes LOW and it waits again. Without the delays the blinking would be too fast to see.
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
delay(500);
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);
delay(500);
}Troubleshooting
The usual mistakes with this circuit, and the fix for each.
- The LED never lights. This project
LEDs have a direction. The long leg (anode) goes toward the resistor and pin 3, and the short leg goes to GND. - The blink is too fast or too slow. This project
Change the two500values indelay. They are in milliseconds. - The LED is dim, burns out, or the pin reads wrong because the resistor value is off. Resistor
Read the color bands again. A 220 ohm to 330 ohm resistor suits a typical LED on 5 V. 10k is a common pull-up or pull-down value. Check with a multimeter if unsure. - A pull-up or pull-down resistor is missing, so the input floats and reads random values. Resistor
Tie the input to 5 V or ground through about 10k. Or use INPUT_PULLUP and wire the switch to ground. - The LED does not light, or it lights once and then dies. LED
LEDs have polarity. The longer leg (anode) goes toward the positive side. Always add a series resistor, about 220 ohms to 1 k ohm on a 5 V pin. - A blue or white LED stays dark on 3.3 V. LED
Blue and white LEDs drop about 3 V, so 3.3 V leaves almost nothing for the resistor. Use a 5 V supply, or a smaller resistor and a red or green LED. - Upload fails or nothing runs after wiring pins 0 and 1 to a module. Arduino Uno R3
Pins 0 and 1 are the USB serial port. Move the module to other pins, or unplug it while uploading. Also check the right board is selected. - Pins misbehave or the board resets when you power motors or servos from it. Arduino Uno R3
Each I/O pin gives about 20 mA, 40 mA max. Power motors and servos from their own supply and join its ground to the Uno's GND.
Change it and keep it
Open it in the editor, change the circuit or the code, and keep your version in a free account.