The rest of the dial
A board with no power on it and one meter: diode, ohms, capacitance and continuity, the four positions that only mean anything with the supply off. There is no microcontroller in it: the simulator solves the 5 parts as a circuit, so it runs the moment you press Run, and nothing needs compiling.
Teaching? Assign it to your class in one click.
Beginner About 10 minutes to build and run. Runs in your browser. Free, and no account needed.
The parts retail for about $5.30. On Mokxi they're free.
What you'll learn
- Why resistance is measured with the circuit unpowered
- Reading a diode's forward drop and finding its direction
- How a parallel resistor changes what the meter sees
- Continuity versus a real resistance
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Time: About 10 minutes
- Parts: 5
How it works
This board has no power supply on it, on purpose. The meter's diode, ohms, capacitance and continuity ranges all push a small current of their own through whatever is between the probes. That only means something when nothing else is driving the circuit.
You get four things to measure. The red LED shows a forward drop on the diode range and OL when the probes are reversed. The 4.7k resistor and the 10k in parallel show how a parallel path changes an ohms reading. The 1 µF capacitor reads on the capacitance range. The wire link tests continuity.
Parts list
5 parts, plus the jumper wires and a bench instrument. The parts retail for about $5.30; on Mokxi they're free, and so are the instruments.
- 1 × Full-size breadboard
- 1 × LED, redIn Starter Kit, Halloween Prop Kit, Logic Lab Kit.
- 1 × Capacitor, 1 µFIn Power Bank Kit.
- 1 × Resistor, 4.7k ΩIn Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Halloween Prop Kit.
- 1 × Resistor, 10k ΩIn Starter Kit, Claw Machine Kit, Halloween Prop Kit.
- 1 × Multimeter
Wiring table
Every connection, pin by pin, read from the circuit itself. Each row joins the pin on the left to the pin on the right, by a jumper wire or a breadboard strip.
| Part and pin | Connects to |
|---|---|
| Capacitor, 1 µF pin 1 | LED, red pin A |
| Multimeter pin V | LED, red pin A |
| Capacitor, 1 µF pin 2 | LED, red pin C |
| Multimeter pin COM | LED, red pin C |
| Resistor, 10k Ω pin 1 | Resistor, 4.7k Ω pin 1 |
| Resistor, 10k Ω pin 2 | Resistor, 4.7k Ω pin 2 |
The notes that come with it
There is no microcontroller in this one, so nothing is compiled: the simulator solves the circuit itself. The file in the editor is the notes that come with it.
// The rest of the dial.
//
// There is no supply in this circuit, on purpose. Ohms, diode, continuity and
// capacitance all work by pushing the meter's own small current through
// whatever is between the leads, so they only mean anything when nothing else
// is driving it. On a live circuit the meter lights IN CIRCUIT and says so.
//
// Four things to measure, and where the leads go:
//
// D diode. Red lead on the LED's anode (column 20), black on its cathode.
// 1.42 V. That is the drop at the 1 mA the meter pushes, worked out from
// the same Shockley equation the LED itself runs on, not a table. Turn
// the leads around and it reads OL, because a diode blocks one way, which
// is how you find which end is which on a part with no markings.
//
// Worth knowing: a real meter on a real red LED reads nearer 1.6 V. The
// LED card here is fitted to 1.8 V at 20 mA with an emission coefficient
// of 2, and that makes its curve too soft a decade down. It is written up
// in docs/accuracy-audit.md rather than quietly rounded.
//
// O ohms. Across the 4.7 k resistor: 4.70 k. Across the resistor and the
// 10 k in parallel with it: 3.20 k, which is the right answer for what is
// between the leads and the wrong answer for either resistor. The meter
// cannot see a parallel path and neither can a real one; lift a leg.
//
// -|- capacitance. Across the 1 uF: 1.00 uF. The meter charges it with a
// known current and solves the first-order response, so the number does
// not depend on the ramp being straight. From about a nanofarad to a
// millifarad.
//
// .))) continuity. Across the wire link at columns 14 to 18 it beeps and
// reads under an ohm; across the 4.7 k it does not, because 4.7 k is a
// connection and continuity is not. The threshold is 30 ohms. The beeper
// mark beside the digits mutes it.
//
// And the two buttons that are not a range: HOLD freezes the display so you
// can get the probes out of somewhere awkward before you read it, and MIN/MAX
// records the lowest and highest reading since you pressed it. RANGE steps
// off auto onto a fixed full scale, and the display reads OL above it, which
// is the point of a manual range, and something auto will never show you.
Troubleshooting
The usual mistakes with this circuit, and the fix for each.
- The ohms reading is lower than the resistor's value This project
Another path is in parallel. Lift one leg of the part so the meter sees only that part. - The diode range shows OL This project
The leads are backwards. Put red on the anode and black on the cathode. - The continuity range does not beep across the 4.7k resistor This project
That is correct. Continuity only beeps below 30 ohms. Try the wire link instead. - The LED does not light, or it lights once and then dies. LED
LEDs have polarity. The longer leg (anode) goes toward the positive side. Always add a series resistor, about 220 ohms to 1 k ohm on a 5 V pin. - A blue or white LED stays dark on 3.3 V. LED
Blue and white LEDs drop about 3 V, so 3.3 V leaves almost nothing for the resistor. Use a 5 V supply, or a smaller resistor and a red or green LED. - An electrolytic capacitor heats up, bulges or pops. Capacitor
Electrolytics have a polarity. The stripe marks the negative leg, which goes toward ground. Also keep the voltage under the rated value, such as 10 V or 16 V. - An RC circuit charges much slower or faster than expected. Capacitor
The time constant is R times C. A 10 k resistor with a 100 uF capacitor gives 1 second, and about 5 seconds to charge fully. Check that you read the value on the part right. - The LED is dim, burns out, or the pin reads wrong because the resistor value is off. Resistor
Read the color bands again. A 220 ohm to 330 ohm resistor suits a typical LED on 5 V. 10k is a common pull-up or pull-down value. Check with a multimeter if unsure.
Change it and keep it
Open it in the editor, change the circuit or the code, and keep your version in a free account.